How-To Build A Cord Concealer

Skill Level: Beginner

Estimated Time: 2 hrs (not including paint or stain time)

Project ID: 20-0006

Disclosure: Some of the links below are affiliate links, meaning, at no additional cost to you, I will earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase.

Welcome!!

We have a travel trailer that we use for getaways. As you know the space is very limited in those, so you imagine the space challenges that you can encounter.

Concealing unsightly items, storage and space, are all in conflict with each other in a small space. The "Small Dilemma" was inspiration for this next project.

Equipment:

Material List:

• Cutting machine such as Silhouette, Cricut or ScanNCut–-> I own a Cameo Silhouette 4 and 2, Cameo is the only brand I have owed. I have heard great things about the other brands on the market, so if you are looking to buy a cutting machine do your research and find the one that best fits your needs.

• Weeding tool (for vinyl)
  

• Transfer tape
  

• Caulking tool
  

• Magnetic Door Catch
  

*** I listed 1"x 10" board but I actually used wood scraps that I had.

*** The optional items listed you can choose to include but these are not mandatory.

• For extra reinforcement include galvanized angle and the 3/4" screws.

Cut List:

Instructions:

Step 1: Cut the following from the 1" x 10" x 6' Board.

• Top Panel -- 1 pc @ 9" x 7"

• Front Panel -- 1 pc @ 9" x 3 3/4"

• Side Panel -- 2 pc @ 7" x 2 3/4"

Step 2: Sand the pieces using a 120 grit and work your way to 220.

Step 3: Paint or Stain all the pieces.

For this project I used Java Gel Stain from General Finishes .

Front Panel of the Cord Concealer:

Step 4: Design or locate a cut design (SVG) online and cut the permanent vinyl. For this project I used the following SVG: https://www.etsy.com/listing/791498993/relax-youre-on-lake-time-svg-lake-svg?ref=yr_purchases

Step 5: Weed the vinyl design using a weeding tool.

Step 6: Apply transfer tape to the vinyl design. I use a caulking tool to smooth the transfer tape on to the vinyl, the tool is very pliable and doesn't damage the tape or vinyl.

Step 7: Apply weeded vinyl design to the front panel of the cord concealer with the transfer tape.

Cord Concealer Assembly Guide:

Step 8: You will need the following items to create the Cord Concealer Assembly:

• 1 pc Top Panel

• 2 pcs Side Panel

• 4 pcs 1 1/4" KREG Screws

• 2 pcs Magnetic Cabinet Door Catch

• 2 pcs 2 in. x 1-1/2 in. x 1-3/8 in. Galvanized Angle

• 8 pcs #8 3/4" Screws

• Drill

• Drill Screwdriver Bit

• KREG Pocket Hole Jig Kit

Using the KREG tool drill the holes into the side pieces. Using the KREG screws drill the sides into the top.

Step 9: Using #8 3/4" screws attach galvanized angles to the top and side pieces.

Step 10: Attach the magnetic cabinet door catch to each Side Panel.

Step 11: For these next steps, you will need the following items:

• 1 pc Cord Concealer Assembly

• 1 pc Front Panel

• 2 pcs Magnetic Cabinet Door Catch (magnetic plate)

• 1 pc Antique Bronze Flat Metal Pull (Item# 1708536 Hobby Lobby)

• Drill

• Drill Screwdriver Bit

Attach the magnetic plate (Magnetic Cabinet Door Catch) to backside of the Front Panel.

Step 12: Attach the Antique Bronze Flat Metal Pull to the top of that Front Panel.

Step 13: Attach the Cabinet Door Bumpers, 2 pcs to the base of the Front Panel and 4 pcs to the base of the Cord Concealer Assembly.

I hope you enjoyed this "How-To" series, if you have any questions or wish to leave comments, please feel free to do so below.

Also please, please TAG ME on social media @fabulouslyshabbylife if you make these, I would love to see your creations!

Stay Fabulously Shabby!

#FabulouslyShabbyLife #FabulouslyShabby #FabulouslyShabbyDIY #FabShab #Wood #Storage #SmallSpaces #Cord

How-To Build An Industrial Shoe Bench

Skill Level: Beginner

Estimated Time: 2 hrs (not including paint or stain time)

Project ID: 20-0005

Disclosure: Some of the links below are affiliate links, meaning, at no additional cost to you, I will earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase.

Welcome!!

This project was a lot fun to build!

I had a small area that needed a shoe rack as well as a bench, this project was the perfect fit. You can customize this bench by adjusting the lengths of Top Rack, Middle Rack, Bottom Rack to fit any size of the space.

I used four supports on each level as well, plus a thicker piece of wood on top to make this bench extremely sturdy. If you do not need a bench and prefer a rack, you can forego the thicker top and only use 2 supports per level.

Equipment:

Material List:

*** The only 2"x 12" boards I could find at the time of creating this post were 10', they may have shorter lengths available when you head to the lumber store.

*** If you do own a saw you can ask if they will cut the wood at the lumber store, some the big box stores will do that for you.

I found these 3/8" flanges on Amazon, they come out a lot cheaper than the ones found at the hardware store.

Cut List:

Instructions:

Step 1: Cut the two 22" lengths from the 1" x 10" x 6' Board.

• Middle Rack -- 1 pc @ 22"

• Bottom Rack -- 1 pc @ 22"

Step 2: Cut the one 22" length from the 2" x 12" x 10' Board.

• Top Rack -- 1 pc @ 22"
  

Step 3: Sand the pieces using a 120 grit and work your way to 220.

Step 4: Paint or Stain and Urethane the Top Rack, Middle Rack, Bottom Rack. This is where you get to be creative!

I used Fusion Mineral Stain & Finishing Oil - All in One.

The Top Rack is Driftwood and the Middle / Bottom Rack is Cappuccino. This is an "All in One", the application was easy compared to other "All in Ones". I did not use a top coat, I was very happy with the results.

Before I begin staining, I take a tack cloth and move it across the surface of the wood to remove any dust.

Staalmeester paint brushes are my favorite, they provide great coverage.

Assembly Guide:

Step 7: For the these next steps, you will need the following items to create the Bottom Rack Assembly:

• 1 pc Bottom Rack

• 4 pcs 3/8" Floor Flange

• 4 pcs 3/8" x 1 1/2" Pipe Nipple

• 4 pcs 3/8" Cap

• 16 pcs #8 3/4" Screws

• Drill

• Drill Screwdriver Bit

Place the topside (side that will face the ceiling) of the Bottom Rack on a hard surface. On the backside (side that will face the floor) of Bottom Rack, place the 3/8" Floor Flange in each of the corners. Holding each 3/8" Floor Flange in place, secure a #8 3/4" Screw in each hole of its four holes.

Step 8: Take a 3/8" x 1 1/2" Pipe Nipple and screw it into the 3/8" Floor Flange.

Step 9: Take a 3/8" Cap and screw it onto the 3/8" x 1 1/2" Pipe Nipple.

Step 10: For these next steps, you will need the following items:

• 1 pc Bottom Rack Assembly

• 1 pc Middle Rack

• 8 pcs 3/8" Floor Flange

• 4 pcs 3/8" x 6" Pipe Nipple

• 32 pcs #8 3/4" Screws

• Drill

• Drill Screwdriver Bit

On the topside of the Bottom Rack Assembly, place the 3/8" Floor Flange in each of the corners. Holding each 3/8" Floor Flange in place, secure a #8 3/4" Screw in each hole of its four holes.

Step 11: Take a 3/8" x 6" Pipe Nipple and screw it into the 3/8" Floor Flange.

Step 12: Take a 3/8" Floor Flange and screw it onto the top of the 3/8" x 6" Pipe Nipple.

Step 13: Attach the Middle Rack to the Bottom Rack Assembly. Place the Middle Rack topside down on a hard surface. Take the Bottom Rack Assembly and flip it topside down. Holding each 3/8" Floor Flange in place, secure a #8 3/4" Screw in each hole of its four holes.

** For this step if you are having challenges drilling the screws in place because there is not enough clearance for your drill, you may want use a short screw driver or flexible Flexible Extension Drill Bit Holder.

Step 14: For these next steps, you will need the following items:

• 1 pc Bottom Rack Assembly

• 1 pc Top Rack

• 8 pcs 3/8" Floor Flange

• 4 pcs 3/8" x 6" Pipe Nipple

• 32 pcs #8 3/4" Screws

• Drill

• Drill Screwdriver Bit

On the topside of the Bottom Rack Assembly, place the 3/8" Floor Flange in each of the corners. Holding each 3/8" Floor Flange in place, secure a #8 3/4" Screw in each hole of its four holes.

Step 15: Take a 3/8" x 6" Pipe Nipple and screw it into the 3/8" Floor Flange.

Step 16: Take a 3/8" Floor Flange and screw it onto the top of the 3/8" x 6" Pipe Nipple.

Step 17: Attach the bottom side of the Top Rack to the Bottom Rack Assembly. Place the Top Rack topside down on a hard surface. Take the Bottom Rack Assembly and flip it upside down. Holding each 3/8" Floor Flange in place, secure a #8 3/4" Screw in each hole of its four holes.

I hope you enjoyed this "How-To" series, if you have any questions or wish to leave comments, please feel free to do so below.

Also please, please TAG ME on social media @fabulouslyshabbylife if you make these, I would love to see your creations!

Stay Fabulously Shabby!

#FabulouslyShabbyLife #FabulouslyShabby #FabulouslyShabbyDIY #FabShab #Shoerack #Bench #FusionPaint #Staalmeester #Wood #Industrial #Storage

How-To Build A Planter Box

Skill Level: Intermediate

Estimated Time: 2 hrs (not including paint or stain time)

Project ID: 20-0004

Equipment:

Material List:

Cut List:

Alternatives for the Top Assembly:

If you do not have a table saw to rip the 5 1/2" in half for the top of the planter here are some other options.

Option A : You can use 1"x 2" board instead for the Top Front/Back and Top Sides. Material Adjustment: Add one more 1" x 2" x 8' and remove one 5 1/2" x 6' fence picket.

Option B : You can use a 3.5 fence picket instead for the Top Front/Back and Top Sides. Material Adjustment: Add one more 3x 1/2" x 6' fence picket and remove one 5 1/2" x 6' fence picket. 3/4 in. Zinc Plated Corner Braces (4-Pack)

Instructions

Step 1: (OPPTIONAL STEP) Plane the Fence Picket 5 1/2" to provide a smooth even surface. If you are following the alternates for the Top Assembly include them in this step as well.

Step 2: Using the 1" x 2" Board layout pattern, cut the 1"x 2" and label the parts (I use making tape and write on the part description).

Option A: If you are using 1"x 2" as a substitute for the Top Front/Back and Top Sides then factor those cuts into this step.

• Top Sides -- 2 pc @ 12 1/2"

• Top Front/Back -- 2 pc @12"

1" x 2" Layout Pattern: ** The Side Frame represents the Interior Support Pieces as well.

Step 3: Using the Fence Picket 5 1/2" layout pattern, cut the 5 1/2" Fence Pickets and label the parts. Option A or B: Exclude the cuts for the Top Sides 1 pc @ 11", Top Front/Back 1 pc @14"

Fence Picket 5 1/2" Layout Pattern:

Step 4: Using the Fence Picket 3 1/2" layout pattern, cut the 3 1/2" Fence Pickets and label the parts. **TIP: If you want to save on wood, instead of using the 3 1/2" Fence Pickets, you can use the leftover 5 1/2" Fence Pickets and cut two pieces at 9".

Option B: If you are using Fence Picket 3 1/2" as a substitute for the for the Top Front/Back and Top Sides then factor those cuts in this step. Top Sides 2 pc * 11", Top Front/Back 2 pc @14 1/2"

Fence Picket 3 1/2" Layout Pattern:

Step 5: (OPPTIONAL STEP) Sand the exterior facing pieces using a 120 grit and work your way to 220. Sand the following pieces; Panel Front/Back, Panel Side, Top Side, Top Front/Back.

Step 6: For the Top Assembly, assemble the Top Sides and Top Front/Back with wood glue and use the corner clamps to keep the pieces together while the glue dries. If you are following option A or B then you will want to do this step.

** If you have a industrial stapler you can use that on the under side face where the wood butts together, this will help keep the pieces together while the glue dries.

Step 7: For the Inner Frame Assembly, you will need the following items for this step.

• 4 pcs Side Frame

• 2 pcs Bottom Frame

• 4 pcs 1-1/4" KREG Screws

• 1 KREG Pocket Hole Jig Kit

• Drill

Drill holes in the bottom frame using the KREG Easy-Set Drill Bit and Stop Collar follow the instructions provided with your KREG jig. Connect the Bottom Frame and Side Frame Screw using the 1-1/4" KREG screw.

This link provides information on how to select the correct pocket hole screw. https://learn.kregtool.com/learn/how-to-select-right-pocket-hole-screw/

Step 8: Attach the Interior Frame Support to the Inner Frame Assembly, you will need the following items for this step.

• 2 pcs Interior Frame Support

• 2 pcs Inner Frame Assembly

• 4 pcs 1 1/4" Screws

• Drill

• 3/32" Drill Bit

• Screwdriver Bit

On the Inner Frame Assembly (on the opposite side of the KREG holes) drill holes 3 3/4" from the base and 3/4" from the outer edge of the frame using 3/32" drill bit. Attach the Interior Frame Support to the Inner Frame Assembly using a #8 1 1/4" screws.

Step 9: Attach the Side Panels to the Inner Frame Assembly you will need the following items for this step.

• 4 pcs Side Panel

• 2 pcs Inner Frame Assembly

• 16 pcs 1" Screws

• Drill

• 3/32" Drill Bit

• Screwdriver Bit

Drill holes 1/4" from the from the outer edge of the side panel using 3/32"drill bit. Attach Side Panel to the Inner Frame Assembly (the KREG hole side) using a #8 1" screws.

Step 10: To create Planter Assembly, attach the Front / Back Panels to the Inner Frame Assembly you will need the following items for this step.

• 4 pcs Front/Back Panel

• 2 pcs Inner Frame Assembly

• 16 pcs 1" Screws

• Drill

• 3/32" Drill Bit

• Screwdriver Bit

Drill holes about 1/4" from the from the outer edge of the side panel using 3/32"drill bit. Attach Front / Back Panel to the Inner Frame Assembly using a #8 1"screws.

Step 11: Attach the Interior Base to the Planter Assembly you will need the following items for this step.

• 3 pcs Interior Base

• 1 pc Planter Assembly

• 6 pcs 1 1/4" Screws

• Drill

• 3/32" Drill Bit

• Screwdriver Bit

Drill holes about 1/4" from the from the outer edge of the Interior Base panel using 3/32"drill bit. Attach Interior Base to the Planter Assembly using a #8 1"screws.

Step 12: Attach the Top Assembly to the Planter Assembly you will need the following items for this step.

• 1 pc Top Assembly

• 1 pc Planter Assembly

• 1-1/4 in. x 23-Gauge Pin Nail

• Pneumatic Headless Pin Nailer

• Air Compressor

Option B: Use the 3/4 in. Corner Braces for additional support for the Top Assembly.

Step 13: (OPPTIONAL STEP) Paint or Stain and Urethane the planter. This is where you can be creative

Step 14: (OPPTIONAL STEP) Hang a star or some other fun item.

OTHER USES:

We also used these as Faux Planters to hide cinder blocks. We used conduit in concrete to create free standing patio string lights

I hope you enjoyed this "How-To" series, if you have any questions or wish to leave comments, please feel free to do so below.

Also please, please TAG ME on social media @fabulouslyshabbylife if you make these, I would love to see your creations!

Stay Fabulously Shabby!

#FabulouslyShabbyLife #FabulouslyShabby #FabShab #Signs #Planter #Picket #WoodPlanter